One month of traveling and working in Bali

“Traveling through SE Asia for 6 months” had long been a goal on our yearly wish list, one we repeatedly deferred. Juggling full-time office jobs, we recognized the complexity of making this dream a reality. However, as remote work gradually became our new reality, the idea of combining work and travel began to grow in our minds. This article describes our one-month itinerary in Bali and explains how we managed to work remotely while traveling. See the end of the article for tips on accommodations with high speed internet and other useful info.

Day-by-day itinerary

Days 1-5: Surfing and chill in Seminyak

We wanted a smooth start in our adventure and we decided to spend a full week and Seminyak to accommodate, chill, and get some surfing lessons. If you are interested in that, we highly recommend Bali Da Waves Surf School.

During our stay in Seminyak, we got the chance to experience Nyepi, a unique Indonesian holiday. Nyepi is a day of profound silence, reflection, and spiritual renewal for the Balinese.

You can’t leave your accommodation, music is forbidden, and even the lights are dimmed (windows discreetly covered). Yet, you won’t feel isolated; most hotels provide meals and access to amenities like pools, gyms, and spas, all within an ambiance of serene stillness.

But there’s more – during Nyepi, no planes land or depart from Bali, and boats remain anchored. Leading up to this day, streets are adorned with bamboo decorations, setting the stage for the mesmerizing Ogoh-ogoh parade. These demonic statues dance through town before being ceremonially burned in a cemetery, symbolizing self-purification. Nyepi, where silence speaks volumes, is an unforgettable experience.

Day 6: Party at Potato Head Beach Club

You can’t leave Seminyak without checking out one of its famous beach clubs. We chose Potato Head for its laid-back vibe and we both agreed it was a Saturday well spent. The only downside is that there is no DJ or party after sunset, but we switched to Favela and danced our night out.

Day 7: Transfer to Ubud

Today we trade the beach for the jungle and move to Ubud. Spend the first part of the day at the beach and in the afternoon take a Grab to a whole different scenery. We paid around 200k IDR for a 2-hour ride. Mind-blowing!

Day 8: Monkey Forest

Stroll the streets of Ubud and head to the Monkey Forest. We paid 200k IDR for the entry ticket which has a monkey-selfie-like photo included, but we decided not to take it. Monkeys can carry rabies so letting them touch you increases the risk of scratches or bites. For a safe visit, I recommend leaving your backpack or purse at home. Do not carry objects in your hands (like water bottles) and don’t wear shiny jewelry, sunglasses, or hats. If you follow these simple rules, you’ll get an amazing experience and you’ll have hundreds of photos of insanely cute baby monkeys on your phone (just don’t let them notice it).

Day 9: Campuhan Ridge Walk

Wake up early to beat the heat and venture behind Ubud’s main street to the lush rice fields. The walk seems pretty shady at first, but after a few minutes, nature unravels itself.

Have a delicious mango smoothie with the best view possible at Bamboo Kitchen before heading back.

Day 10: Spa day at Kaveri Spa at The Udaya

In Bali, indulging in a massage is an absolute must-do. I enjoyed a full spa experience at Kaveri Spa including a relaxing and aesthetic flower bath as my birthday present.

While I was being pampered, Vlad had his own experience learning how to drive a scooter. He highly recommends booking a training session with @balimotorbikelessons.

Bali proved to be the ideal place to master this skill, with its relatively light traffic and patient fellow road users. We carefully tailored our daily itineraries to progressively increase the length and complexity of the rides, so Vlad would perfect his skills.

However, if the idea of scootering around is not appealing to you or you don’t feel confident enough, fear not! Bali offers a plethora of transportation alternatives, from using Grab rideshares to hiring a knowledgeable driver for your journey.

Day 11: Tegallalang Rice Terraces

When you think Bali, you think of influencers wearing long, colorful dresses swinging over lush green rice terraces. The Tegallalang Rice Terraces are a breathtaking sight to behold even if you’re not interested in taking Instagrammable pictures. This iconic destination, just a short drive from Ubud, offers a captivating blend of natural beauty and ancient agricultural craftsmanship.

The best time to visit is during the early morning or late afternoon when the soft sunlight bathes the terraces in a warm, golden glow. The entry ticket price is 50k IDR.

Day 12: Suwat Waterfall and Kanto Lampo Waterfall

Chasing waterfalls through Bali’s lush rainforests is a quintessential experience. Because there were so many worth visiting and our travel day was ending around 14 o’clock, we had to plan them over multiple days.

We hopped on our scooter and headed to the first waterfall on a long list of waterfalls: Suwat. A short trek through dense, emerald-green foliage brought us to the falls. We arrived early in the morning, the sun was still hidden by the forest. Paddling on a bamboo raft at the base of the waterfall was the highlight of our visit. There is a local guide who will teach you how to use the raft as well as taking amazing pictures of you. I swear all Balinese people are undercover professional photographers.

After some swimming and cliff jumping, we headed to Kanto Lampo Waterfall. Our next stop was equally captivating but in a different way. Sunlight filtered through the dense foliage above, creating a dazzling display of dancing light on the cascading water. If you wish to take some pictures, prepare yourself for a slow-moving queue.

Day 13: Mount Batur Sunrise Trekk

The day started with a 2 a.m. wake-up call. The plan for today – enjoy the sunrise on the summit of Mount Batur.

After some research online we decided to book a tour for this activity. Although the hike is totally doable on your own, there were some reasons why we decided to go with a guide. First, it was the transfer to the start point of the trek, which is about 1h30 from Ubud and Vlad’s driving skills were not good enough to drive comfortably in the dark. Second, according to some reviews we read online, the locals won’t let you drive to the starting point claiming that it’s required to have a guide. Last would be that we didn’t have any headlights and we also know that the trail is not marked.

With all these motives in mind, we booked the cheapest tour we found on viator.com. The tour was around 30$ per person, and the entire experience was decent. We were picked up in time and had some pancakes for breakfast. On our way to the starting point, there was indeed a traffic filter, where some locals stopped our van and talked to the driver. The hike up was not a walk in the park, but any reasonably fit person should be able to do it.

Unfortunately, the weather was not on our side. It was cold, rainy, and pretty cloudy, but the fog disappeared for a few minutes just in time for us to see the sunrise.

Day 14: Ulun Danu Beratan Temple, Bali Handara Gate and Leke Leke Waterfall

We took advantage of a weekend day to drive further north than we could reach in a working day. We started early in the morning and the first stop was Ulun Danu Beratan Temple. The temple is located in a truly scenic place – by the water, with views over the mountains covered in fog. After visiting the temple and watching some fascinating celebrations, we needed a coffee. We had a great breakfast with breathtaking views at Hot Sugar Cafe at Bedugul Hills.

The second stop was Bali Handra Gate, a beautiful, traditional Balinese gate with cloudy hills in the background. Once there we found out we had to pay a fee and wait in line to take a picture, so we skipped that and drove through the gate and enjoyed the views.

The last stop on the list was the beautiful Leke Leke waterfall. Not the place for a swim, but THE place for pictures. Located in a tropical, luxuriant setting, Leke Leke is the most picture-perfect waterfall in Bali.

Day 15: Jatiluwih Rice Terraces

When you think of Bali, you envision endless rice terraces. Today’s views remain engraved in my core memory. Start the day early because there is a 1h30-2h drive ahead til we reach Jatiluwih Rice Terraces. Once there, you can choose from several walking trails. We chose a combination of 2 trails trying to cover as much as possible. The daily coffee stop was at Batu Karu Kopi.

Day 16: Tibumana Waterfall

A short drive from Ubud is the perfect place for a cool-off. On the way there, you can take some Instagram-worthy pictures with the palm trees on the side of the road. Coffee stop of the day: D’Carik Tibumana.

Day 17: Pura Tirta Empul, Pemulan Luwak Coffee and Tegenungan Waterfall

Pura Tirta Empul is one of the most popular Balinese temples on the island. Locals and tourists come here to bathe to be purified and blessed by the gods. We didn’t take part in the ritual, but we had a great time walking around the temple complex and observing the locals. After we visited the temple, one of the temple guides recommended we check out Luwak Coffee at Pemulan, just a few minutes from the temple. Once at the coffee plantation, we got a free tour and free coffee and tea tasting. The experience was very nice and they have a small shop from where you can buy the coffee and tea you enjoyed the most at the tasting.

On our way back to Ubud, we made a stop for a quick dip at Tegenungan Waterfall. If you have more time here, check out Omma Dayclub.

Day 18: Ubud Rice Fields Walk and Sumampan Waterfall

Today we felt like taking a break from the long drives and taking a scenic walk along the irrigation canals in Ubud and just observing the locals working on the rice fields. It’s fascinating for me to observe the life cycle of the rice plants and how much work is put into it. Besides the rice paddies, you can find banana trees, palm trees, or smaller tropical plants like red button ginger, Alocasias, Monsteras, and Kroton plants.

After our walk in the hot sun, needed a swim so we headed to Sumpampan waterfall. A less popular waterfall, but very picture-worthy. The top of the waterfall is covered by a roof of trees which lay down their long aesthetic aerial root almost like an extension of the waterfall.

Day 19: Cretya Ubud

Along with rice terraces, breathtaking waterfalls, and culture-rich temples, Bali is also well known for its amazing pool clubs. What I like about the pool clubs in Bali is that even if they look like exclusivists places, they are not. You’d be surprised at how laid back the atmosphere is. If you’re in Ubud, you must spend a day at Cretya, a stunning multi-leveled pool with views of the rice fields of Tegalang. At the entrance you pay a 50k IDR entrance ticket, then you can choose a sitting area. You can choose a free sitting area or one which has a minimum spending amount.

Day 20: Transfer to Nusa Penida

It’s time to say goodbye to Bali and explore the nearby islands in search of some world-famous beaches. We booked the transfer from a local booth. The transfer has 2 parts: Ubud – Sanur by minivan and Sanur – Nusa Penida by speed boat. From the harbor, we just walked to our accommodation. We rented a scooter from our accommodation for about 100k IDR per day and went for some brunch at Penida Colada Beach Bar, which became our favorite spot for food and drinks on the island. You have to try the 2-for-1 cocktails during sunset happy hour.

Day 21: Kelingking Beach, Broken Beach, Angel Billabong

Ready for an early wake-up call, we were determined to hike down the infamous Kelingkling beach. To beat the heat and the crowd it’s important to start the hike early, around 6:30 a.m. If you arrive later in the day, the hike will become more difficult because the path is narrow and you’d have to share it with other people climbing up. On the beach, you can find some small booths selling snacks, but no other facilities. The waves and currents are strong and not for beginner swimmers.

After what seemed like a forever hike uphill and some more pictures, we headed to the next stop of the day. Angel’s Billabong is a natural infinity pool with amazing views over the ocean. As it is thrilling and exciting to swim in, Angel’s Billabong can be dangerous, as the waves can drag you into the sharp cliffs or the ocean. When we arrived, a light tropical rain started and it was just what we needed after the uphill hike in full sun. Despite the black clouds, the ocean was calm and there were no waves in the natural pool, making it safe for swimming. The beautiful green shades of the water were still showing even without the sun.

Next to Angel’s Billabong, you can find Broken Beach. A circle-shaped cove in the rocks with a natural archway creates some scenic views over the rock formations and it’s the perfect place for a short walk to enjoy it from all angles. This is also a perfect place for spotting manta rays.

Day 22: Diamond Beach, Atuh Beach, Thousand Islands Viewpoint

The next day we were ready for some more stunning beaches in Nusa Penida. We headed to yet another Instagram-famous beach. Diamond Beach. On the way there he had our first minor incident while riding a scooter. We hit a deep pothole while driving on a twisted road. Luckily we were driving uphill and slowly so there were no casualties, but we took a scare.

We parked our scooter at Diamond Beach and headed to the viewpoint. From above the beach looks so dreamy, but when we arrived down, we were confronted once again with Bali’s ugly side – the neverending trash on the beaches and in the water. Because it was morning the strip of sand was narrow so it was impossible to find a clean spot on the sand to lay your towel.

From here we walked to Atuh Beach. You won’t find any road on the map, but in reality, there is a dirt road you can follow for about 15 min to Atuh Beach. Because Atuh Beach has some sunbeds you can rent, there was not even a single piece of garbage in sight and we decided to spend the day here.

From Diamond Beach, you can also walk another 15 min in opposite directions to reach Thousand Islands Viewpoint, where you’ll also find the Istagrammable little house. If you want to take a picture on the little house’s ladder, you’ll have to pay a fee and be ready to queue.

Day 23: Manta Ray Snorkeling Trip, Crystal Bay and Pandan Beach

On our last day in Nusa Penida, we booked a snorkeling tour hoping to be lucky enough to swim with the manta rays we’ve been spotting from above in the last days.

Sadly, we weren’t lucky and the first snorkeling spot had trash floating around while we were swimming which was as unpleasant as it sounds. Fortunately, one of the stops was Gamat Bay, which had the clearest water, a lot of beautiful corals, and small fish so even if we didn’t spot manta rays we had an amazing time snorkeling.

While on our tour we spotted a small, cute beach, next to Crystal Bay. We then looked on the map to find it – Pandan Beach – and decided to check it out. To reach it we walked all the way to the left side of Crystal Bay where you’ll find a dirt path that you can follow for about 15 min.

We finished the day watching the sunset at Cristal Bay with a cold Bintang in our hands.

Day 24-26: Gili Air

Throughout this article, I mentioned a few times how disappointed I was with how beaches look like here in Bali and Nusa Penida. The Gili Islands came to the rescue.

Gili Islands is a group of 3 small islands close to Lombok. This translates into: there is no motorized transportation on the islands and the official religion is Muslim, unlike Bali. We split our stay between 2 islands: Gili Air and Gili Trawangan.

To get to Gili Air we used 12asiago to book the transfer with a speedboat from Nusa Penida.

Gili Air is small enough to walk around it in about one hour. The vibe here gives slow-life tropical paradise. There are no sightseeing points, just beautiful beaches, and blue water – the perfect destination for snorkeling lovers. The best snorkeling points are on the east side of the island, next to Bel Air Resort and Spa. While in Gili Air, you have to try the food at the local warungs. Here the food has muslim influences and the taste is to die for. Just a few places we recommend: zZz Warung (must try Bubur Ayam), Sunny Warung, and Orange’s Warung.

Day 20-21: Gili Trawangan

Gili Trawangan has the same tropical paradise vibe as Gili Air but is spiced with some lively nightlife, beach parties, and beach cinema. I would recommend the first day you arrive, rent a bike (the primary transportation method on the island) bike around the island, and note what places catch your attention. Some of the activities we did: sunset at Pink Coco, snorkeling in the north-east side of the island, having some cocktails on the beach, open-air cinema at Aston Movie Night, party at Follow the Sun bar (or just walk along the beachfront and pick whatever bar you like), sunrise on the beach.

Tips for a smooth remote working experience

1. Buy a data SIM card. Telkomsel has the best coverage but it’s also the most expensive.
2. Choose accommodations with high and steady internet speed. Our internet speed needs are pretty hard to meet but we were able to do our job without much frustration in all the accommodations we picked: video Zoom and Teams calls, connection to VMs, remote servers, DB access, etc. We spent A LOT of time reading Booking reviews in order to choose accommodations with high speed internet and working desks. Here you have them:
   • Seminyak: Grandmas Plus Hotel Seminyak
   • Ubud: Ayu Sari Guest House
   • Nusa Penida: J&J Guest House
   • Gili T: Jali Resort
3. Always have 1-2 work-friendly coffee shops or co-working spaces chosen beforehand in case your accommodation loses internet connection. Our recommendation is HOME Cafe UBUD.
4. We work on European work hours, so there was a 5-6-hour difference between the two time zones. In Bali, we started working at 15:00 and finished around midnight, so we had plenty of time to explore in the morning and noon. We also didn’t want to work during the night.
5. We took some days off at the end of our itinerary because we wanted to visit the Gili islands and we weren’t sure of the internet reliability. Now, I would say it would have been totally possible to work from there as well.