South Albania – 10-day road trip itinerary
It’s that time of year again—our annual road trip through the Balkans! Living so close to so many beautiful countries, we’ve made it a tradition to visit a new one each year. This year, the spotlight is on Albania. While it may not be at the top of everyone’s travel list, Albania is a hidden gem with breathtaking landscapes, delicious food, and surprisingly affordable prices. On this trip, we only had the chance to explore its stunning coastline, but Albania’s majestic mountains are still on my list for next time. So, let’s dive into the South Albania road trip itinerary!
Table of Contents
Day 1 – Ohrid Lake (Macedonian side)
Accommodation: 2A New Bazaar Apartment
Our Albanian adventure kicked off in North Macedonia, as both countries share the stunning Lake Ohrid. Since the Macedonian side tends to attract more tourists, we thought it would be the ideal place to start our journey. After parking near the main boulevard close to Ohrid City Square, we wandered into the charming old town. Our first taste of local cuisine was at Vkusno Kebap Shop, where we enjoyed delicious pljeskavica and cevapi—just the start of many hearty meals to come.
With full bellies, we headed to the Ohrid Boardwalk. We grabbed some sunbeds, took a refreshing swim, and treated ourselves to a well-deserved nap. Once we soaked up the sun, we made our way to the Church of Saints Clement and Panteleimon, strolling through the town’s narrow streets and greeting every cat we met. We even passed by the Ancient Macedonian Theatre before circling back to the old town. To cap off the day, we savored some rich Turkish coffee and baklava at Antep Baklava—a sweet ending to a perfect day.
Day 2 – Tirana
Accommodation: Maya Hostel Berat
Tirana may not wow you with its architecture or art, but it’s worth a day to see how Albania’s history, particularly its communist past, has shaped the city. It’s fascinating to witness how Tirana is now working hard to forge a new identity. One thing it doesn’t lack is charming and affordable cafes and restaurants.
We kicked off our day at Komiteti – Kafe Muzeum, a cozy spot with decor inspired by Albania’s communist era. The vintage items brought back childhood memories for us, so we spent some time browsing the place like you would in a museum. Along with our morning coffee, we were also offered a shot of raki, a strong local spirit. Apparently, the Albanian way to start the day is with coffee and raki!
After breakfast, we joined a free walking tour to learn more about Tirana’s rich and complex history. From there, we headed to the Old Bazaar for some souvenir shopping. When lunchtime rolled around, we enjoyed a delightful meal at Mrizi i Zanave Tirane, where we indulged in local cheeses and freshly made puff pastry platters.
Our afternoon took us to Bunk’Art 2, an underground museum inside a bunker that vividly tells the story of the “Sigurimi,” the brutal political police during the regime of Enver Hoxha.
Right next to Bunk’Art 2, you’ll find Tirana Castle—not your typical castle, but a lively street lined with cafes and restaurants, set within old fortified walls. We wrapped up our day with a sunset drink at Radio Bar Tirana and a relaxed evening walk through Blloku, Tirana’s vibrant nightlife district.
Day 3 – Berat and Alpeta Winery
The day before we left Tirana, we made our way to Berat. Even though we arrived late at night, the town greeted us with a lively yet relaxed atmosphere. The next morning, we woke up early to explore. With no strict sightseeing plan, we wandered through the charming narrow streets, capturing photos of the stunning views along the way. Berat has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2008. The white, Ottoman-era houses in the old town, with their countless windows, create a striking visual that has earned Berat the nickname “The City of a Thousand Windows.”
As lunchtime approached, we decided to hike up the hill to Berat Castle. After snapping more photos of the panoramic views, we refueled with a delicious meal at Beret Family Caffe Mbrica.
We ended the day with an incredible vineyard tour and wine and raki tasting at Alpeta Winery, all for just 15 euros per person. This family-run vineyard, with its generations of passion and hard work, left a lasting impression on us. Booking the tour was easy—just a quick message on their Instagram page.
For dinner, we headed to Tradita e Beratit, a lovely family-owned restaurant serving up mouthwatering local dishes. A perfect way to wrap up our time in Berat.
Day 4 – Logara Pass, Palase beach and Himare town
Accommodation: Village House
We kicked off the day with a long but scenic drive from Berat to Palase Beach, winding through the breathtaking Logara Pass. Along the way, we stopped for coffee and breakfast at one of the roadside restaurants, where the views were simply stunning.
We spent the day at Palase Beach, one of my favorites in Albania. Towering mountains on one side and crystal-clear water on the other. It doesn’t get better than this. A few tips for a great day here: pack water shoes and bring your own drinks, as the beach bar can be quite pricey.
As the day wound down, we made our way to Himare, which would be our home base for the next few days. We enjoyed a hearty dinner at Taverna To Steki and ended the evening watching a gorgeous sunset from Himare Beach. Perfect ending to a beautiful day.
Day 5 – Puerto Palermo beach and Gjipe beach
We woke up excited to explore more of the incredible beaches along the Albanian coast, starting with my all-time favorite: Puerto Palermo Beach. For a stress-free visit, I recommend arriving before 9 a.m. Parking is limited, and the beach itself is small, so it fills up quickly. We got there early, secured a spot by the water, and enjoyed some coffee at the cozy beach bar. The day slipped away as we relaxed by the crystal-clear water, soaking in the laid-back atmosphere.
For lunch, we stopped at Taverna Velco, where we indulged in delicious seafood and Greek dips.
Our next stop was Gjipe Beach, one of the few sandy beaches in the area. While undeniably beautiful, it was a bit crowded for our liking.
To end the day, we dined at Lefteri’s Tavern in Himare—hands down the best restaurant in town. The marinated sardines and octopus were absolutely unforgettable, making it a must-visit spot.
Day 6 – Dhermi town and boat trip to Grama Bay
We started the day with a short trip to Dhermi, a town that truly impressed us with its charm. Dhermi is a gem with cobblestone streets, picturesque churches, and a blend of restaurants and hotels that beautifully complement the historic Ottoman architecture. We enjoyed a stroll, taking in the upscale yet cozy atmosphere.
Back in Himare, we prepared for an exciting boat trip around the Karaburun Peninsula to Grama Bay. We booked our tickets a couple of days in advance at the port with “Himara Seas The Day” and we highly recommend them. The trip was fantastic, with stops for a swim at Pirate’s Cave, Sant Andreas Bay, and about two hours spent at Grama Bay. Accessible only by boat (or a lengthy hike), Grama Bay feels like a hidden paradise. There’s a small restaurant on the beach, but be sure to bring your own sun umbrella as there aren’t any available for rent.
Day 7 – Jale beach, Aquarium beach
Almost a week into our trip, we encountered our first setback. We set out with high hopes to explore two beaches south of Himare: Lukova and Kroreza. After an hour’s drive to Lukova, we were disappointed to find the beach in poor condition—dirty, with a sewage smell, and lacking any inviting atmosphere. We decided to cut our losses and started the hike to Kroreza Beach. However, about ten minutes in, we lost the trail (if there even was one) and opted to head back to Himare.
Back in Himare, we chose Jale Beach as our next spot. Though it’s a more commercial beach with plenty of sunbeds, the water was clean and beautiful. We also visited Aquarium Beach, a smaller cove about a 20-minute walk from Jale. While it offered a picturesque setting, we were saddened to find some trash scattered among the stones.
In the evening, we relaxed with a bit of Balkan flair and shisha at Private Lounge, right on Himare Beach.
Day 8 – Shpella e Pëllumbave
Accommodation: TeArra GuestHouse
It was time to say goodbye to Himare and head to our next stop: Gjirokaster. But before trading the coast for the mountains, we made the mandatory stop at Shpella e Pëllumbave. The beach was framed by rough waves, strikingly blue water, and towering white cliffs. One thing to note is that most of the beach is lined with sunbeds, so if you plan on staying for a while, renting one might be your best bet.
There’s also a bar and restaurant right on the beach, making it easy to grab a bite or drink while enjoying the views.
By sunset, we arrived in Gjirokaster, where lively streets greeted us. Bars were buzzing, DJs were mixing tunes in the narrow lanes, and shisha smoke swirled around colorful souvenir shops. We enjoyed a delicious dinner at Te Kubé, which offered stunning views of the Mosque. Later, we danced the night away at Babameto 2.
Day 9 – Ksamil
Ksamil is one of Albania’s most popular vacation spots, so we decided to see what all the hype was about. Rather than staying overnight, we opted for a day trip from Gjirokaster. We arrived early and found parking just outside the center, having heard about the traffic chaos during peak season. Once that was sorted, we set off to explore the many small, private beaches, hoping to rent four sunbeds for the day. It didn’t take long to realize that in Ksamil during high season, sunbeds need to be booked days, if not weeks, in advance. After several rejections, we finally found some available at a reasonable price.
After all that hassle, we needed a great meal to lift our spirits, and we found it at Traditional Restaurant Family. The food didn’t disappoint!
With full bellies, we returned to the beach for a stroll along the coastline, soaking in the atmosphere. Ksamil is perfect for those who enjoy convenience: hotels, beaches with full amenities, and restaurants are all within walking distance. You can enjoy resort-style service on the beach, without worrying about a thing. The water is stunningly blue, and the imported sand keeps your feet comfortable. There are plenty of water sports, luxury beach clubs, and bars where prices aren’t listed on the menu.
In the end, Ksamil was just as I had imagined. While it’s beautiful, I can confidently say that Albania’s coastline has so much more to offer—it would be a shame to spend your entire vacation in Ksamil alone.
Day 10 – Blue Eye and Gjirokaster
It’s our last day of the trip before heading back home, and technically our third in Gjirokaster, but we still hadn’t explored the town. Today was finally the day—but not just yet. First, we had one more stop: the Blue Eye. This stunning water spring, with its vivid colors and dark underwater cave, forms the shape of an eye, best viewed from a glass platform above. The spring is about a 20-minute walk from the parking lot. It pushes out a large volume of water, and while people used to dive from the platform into the spring, that was prohibited during our visit. We ventured a bit further from the main spring for a quick (and freezing!) plunge.
Back in Gjirokaster, we headed straight to Gjirokaster Castle, where we admired the impressive Ottoman architecture and took in the panoramic views of the mountains surrounding the town. Afterward, we visited The Zekate House and The Skenduli House, two UNESCO World Heritage-listed buildings that give a glimpse into the town’s rich history. We wrapped up the day by browsing the Bazaar for some last-minute souvenirs.
Know Before You Go
- Most beaches along the Albanian coast are pebbly, so don’t forget to pack water shoes for comfort. A sun umbrella can also come in handy, especially on beaches with limited shade.
- We visited in August during the high season, but aside from Ksamil, the beaches never felt overcrowded. Albania still seems to be a bit of a hidden gem when it comes to tourism.
- The local currency is the Albanian Lek, though the euro is widely accepted. Keep in mind that Albania is very much a cash-based society, and most ATMs charge a withdrawal fee of 300-700 lek.
